Then you have to add oil, you should spend time and determine the oil consumption:
Carefully fill in the oil exactly to the top division;
After 500 or 1000 km of run, use a measuring device to add oil and determine the consumption per 1000 km.
Part of the oil inevitably burns out during engine operation. Run-in engines consume about 0.2 liters per 1000 km. Oil consumption depends on the following circumstances.
Overflowing oil leads to increased oil consumption, since under the action of crankcase ventilation, the excess enters the engine cylinders.
Low viscosity oil burns faster than high viscosity oil. Seasonal oil in the hot state becomes liquid like water, multigrade oil remains more viscous. This quality, in particular, can reduce oil consumption when traveling long distances.
Engine oil, especially all-weather oil, which remains in the engine for a long time, needs to be changed more often.
An active driving style, in addition to increased fuel consumption, also leads to an increase in oil consumption. This is especially evident when the new engine immediately receives a full load.
During the break-in period, the engine needs more lubrication.
Oil leaks can occur in the following places:
Crankshaft and camshaft gaskets (these places are covered with a casing);
Gaskets on the cylinder head cover;
Cylinder head gasket;
Oil pressure sensor;
Oil filter gasket;
Oil pan gasket;
Rear crankshaft seal (oil appears at the junction of the engine and gearbox);
In places of wear of engine components, for example, due to defective valve stem seals, too much clearance between the valve stem and valve guide, incorrectly installed piston rings (if they were replaced), due to defective or scuffed cylinder walls.
Frequent checks show that the engine is using little or no oil.
During short trips in winter, the oil level may not decrease at all or even increase. A rising oil level means that it contains fuel or condensate. Such an oil noticeably loses its lubricating properties, therefore it is recommended to make regular long trips to “evaporate” the condensate. Immediately after them, check the oil level, as it can be significantly reduced as a result of evaporation of fuel or water! For intensive urban use without intermediate long trips, an appropriate oil change interval should be selected. A suitable interval can be determined empirically during the operation of the car.
automn.ru
VAZ 2106 | Engine oil consumption | Zhiguli
Engine oil performs the primary functions of lubricating and cooling inside the engine and plays an important role in keeping the engine in good working order.
It is normal for some engine oil to be consumed during normal engine operation. The following are reasons for oil consumption during normal engine operation.
– Oil is used to lubricate pistons, piston rings and cylinders. A thin film of oil remains on the cylinder wall as the piston moves down the cylinder. The high negative pressure generated during vehicle deceleration draws some of this oil into the combustion chamber. This oil, as well as some of the oil film remaining on the cylinder wall, burns out due to the high temperature of the exhaust gases during the combustion process.
– Oil is also used to lubricate intake valve stems. Some of this oil is sucked into the combustion chamber along with the intake air and burned along with the fuel. The high temperature of the exhaust gases also burns the oil used to lubricate the exhaust valve stems.
The amount of engine oil consumed depends on the viscosity of the oil, the quality of the oil and the driving conditions.
When driving at high speeds and frequent acceleration and deceleration, more oil is consumed.
A new engine consumes more oil because its pistons, piston rings and cylinder walls have not yet worn in.
When estimating the amount of oil consumption, keep in mind that the oil can be diluted and it will be difficult to accurately estimate its true level.
For example, if the car is used for frequent short trips and consumes a normal amount of oil, the dipstick may not show any drop in oil level even after driving 1000 km or more. This is due to the fact that the oil is gradually diluted with fuel or moisture, giving the appearance that the oil level has not changed.
The diluting ingredients evaporate when the vehicle is driven at high speed, such as on a motorway, resulting in excessive oil consumption after driving at high speeds.
One of the most important points in proper vehicle maintenance is keeping the engine oil at the optimum level so that the performance of the engine oil does not deteriorate. Therefore, it is very important to check the oil level regularly. Toyota recommends checking the oil level every time you fill up your vehicle with fuel.
automn.ru
Causes of increased oil consumption in the engine
The problem of increased oil consumption very often worries the owners of those cars whose mileage is already quite long after the purchase or overhaul. But even on new cars, the engine often starts to consume oil beyond measure. To understand the reason for this, first let's break down a bit of theory on the subject.
For domestically produced cars, such as VAZ 2106-07, or later releases 2109-2110, the allowable oil consumption during engine operation is 500 ml per 1000 kilometers. Of course, this is the maximum, but still - it is clearly not worth considering such an expense as normal. In a good serviceable engine from replacement to oil change, many owners do not top up a single gram. Here is a great indicator.
So, below is a list of reasons why a car engine starts to eat oil too quickly and in large quantities. I would like to note right away that this list is not complete and is made on the basis of the personal experience of many experienced owners and specialists.
- Increased wear of the piston group: compression and oil scraper rings, as well as the cylinders themselves. The gap between the parts becomes increased, and in connection with this, the oil begins to flow into the combustion chamber in relatively small quantities, after which it burns out along with gasoline. On the exhaust pipe with such symptoms, you can usually notice either heavy oil deposits or a black coating. Overhaul of the engine, replacement of parts of the piston group and boring of cylinders, if necessary, will help to eliminate this problem.
- The second case, which is also quite common, is the wear of valve stem seals. These caps are put on the valve from the top side of the cylinder head and prevent oil from entering the combustion chamber. If the caps become leaky, the flow rate will increase accordingly and the only solution to this problem will be to replace the valve stem seals.
- There are times when everything seems to be fine with the engine, and the caps are changed, but the oil both flew away and flies into the pipe. Then you should pay special attention to the valve guides. Ideally, the valve should not dangle in the sleeve and the gap should be minimal. If the backlash is felt by hand, and especially strong, then it is urgent to change these same bushings. They are pressed into the cylinder head and it is not always possible to do this at home, although most succeed.
- Oil leakage through oil seals and gaskets in the engine. If you are sure that everything is fine with the motor, and you cannot understand why the oil is leaving, you should pay attention to all the gaskets, especially the pan. Also check the seals to see if they are leaking. If damage is found, parts must be replaced with new ones.
- It is also worth bearing in mind that driving style directly affects how and how much oil your engine will eat. If you are used to a quiet ride, then you should not have any problems with this. And if, on the contrary, you squeeze everything that it is capable of out of your car, constantly operate it at increased speeds, then you should not be surprised at the increased oil consumption.
These were the main points to consider if you suspect that your ICE's appetite for fuel has increased. If you had a different experience, you can leave your comments below the article.
zarulemvaz.ru
2.13 Oil consumption
Oil consumption
Part of the engine oil, while performing its functions, burns out. Thus, oil consumption is a completely natural process. Well-tuned engines use 0.2 liters of oil every 1000 km. Audi calls the maximum allowable consumption of 1.0 liters of lubricant for every 1000 km. How much oil your Audi A4 uses depends on the following:
- an excessive amount of oil leads to its greater consumption, because through the crankcase ventilation, excess oil is blown into the engine;
- thin oil burns faster than thick oil. Seasonal oil in a heated state becomes liquid like water, and its consumption increases accordingly. All-weather oil stays thick; this entails its lower consumption - this is especially noticeable on long trips;
- All-season oil left in the engine for too long thins slightly, losing its highest viscosity grade, and the need for its addition increases accordingly.
- a sharp driving style at high engine speeds, in addition to increasing fuel consumption, also increases oil consumption. This is especially evident when the new engine immediately starts to work with full load.
- during break-in, the engine needs a little more lubrication than usual.
- leakage. Check everything as described in the Engines chapter.
- a defect in the engine itself; e.g. defective valve stem gaskets, too much clearance between the valve guide and valve stem, defective piston rings or incorrect assembly during repair, damage to the cylinder wall due to wear or piston seizure.
Lack of oil consumption is suspicious
In winter, when driving short distances, it happens that the oil level from measurement to measurement does not decrease, but even rises. There is no reason to be happy here, since this means that the engine oil is diluted with fuel or water condensate. These “additives”, which significantly impair the lubricating qualities of the oil, must be “boiled out” by regular long driving in order for the condensate to evaporate. Then you need to immediately measure the oil level, because after evaporation of gasoline or water that got into the oil, its level will drop sharply! When driving exclusively in extreme city driving without intermediate long-distance trips, it is recommended to change the oil more often than at the intervals indicated above, for example every 3000 km or every four months.
If all systems and mechanisms of the engine are in good order, then after 10 thousand kilometers the oil will decrease by an amount that does not go beyond the minimum allowable level. In short, on a healthy engine, topping up oil between two regular maintenance is not required.
Increased oil consumption is the result of two types of malfunctions:
1) violation of the tightness of the joints of engine parts and assemblies, due to which the oil flows out. The defect, as a rule, occurs due to loosening of the mating parts (cylinder head cover, cylinder head, fuel pump - cylinder block, cylinder block - pan, etc.) or deformation of sealing gaskets;
2) failure in the operation of parts of the crank mechanism; wear of piston rings, pistons or cylinders; occurrence of piston rings in the grooves of the pistons; breakage of piston rings; damage to valve stem seals; increased wear of the valve stem or guide bushings. These defects occur due to prolonged operation of the engine with overheating. Oil easily enters the combustion chamber and is already half-burnt thrown out of the muffler. In order to correctly assess the malfunction, based on emissions from the muffler, we remind you that blue exhaust smoke occurs when oil enters the combustion chamber, black smoke - when the mixture is rich, white - when coolant enters the combustion chamber. Spark plugs are also not left unattended, more and more often they have to be removed and burned.
You should not worry when film oil stains appear in certain places of the engine. This is not criminal. Another thing is when the oil clearly tends to penetrate through leaks in the joints and, mixing with dust, contaminate the surface of the engine. The places of possible oil penetration are well studied.
If dirt periodically forms along the contact contour of the timing cover with the cylinder head, either the gasket is to blame, or insufficient uneven tightening, or protrusion of the gasket from under the flanging of the cover.
The approach to the front of the engine is inconvenient, and oily dirt tends to accumulate there. The reason is the loosening of the camshaft drive cover. The heads of the bolts that secure the cover fit a 10 mm wrench, and if the key shaft is artificially lengthened, it will not be difficult to tighten the cover fastening.
If you open the hood and find more and more oil stains around the oil filler neck, you should rinse the filler cap well in gasoline. The culprit for oil penetration and contamination of the front and rear parts of the engine in the crankshaft area are usually oil seals. Here it is necessary to realistically assess the situation. If only a small area is oiled directly at the crankshaft pulley and crankcase cover, then there is no reason to replace the oil seals.
Dealing with all kinds of oil leaks is unpleasant, but not so difficult, if only because it is clear where it is flowing from. It is more difficult when the reason is not clear. If there are suspicions that the parts of the crank mechanism are faulty, it is necessary to contact specialists.
So, when the muffler emits blue smoke, the reason is clear. The engine will be dismantled and, most likely, a number of parts will be replaced. But it happens that everything is fine with the exhaust gases, there are no traces of oil leaks, but the oil still disappears. The reason will become clear if one or more engine cylinders periodically refuse to work. Remove the spark plug or plugs from these cylinders and you will see that they are splattered with oil. The rubber oil cap 10 () failed to work, and the oil was able to enter the combustion chamber.
The cap costs a penny, and the work to replace it is more than 25 rubles. Naturally, experienced motorists solve this problem on their own, although to solve the problem, preparatory work is required to dismantle the parts that interfere with the approach to the caps and to manufacture the appropriate equipment and, above all, the device shown in Fig. 49.
The operation must be performed with an assistant in the following order:
- using the start handle or a special key to turn the crankshaft of the car engine and turn the crankshaft to such an angle that the piston in the cylinder under study reaches top dead center;
- given that the chain or belt is free from tension, it is necessary to artificially roll the gear over the chain. This work should be done by an assistant;
- using the tool (see fig. 49), remove the valve springs. To hold the valve in place, an assistant with a long screwdriver or a metal rod with a diameter of 9-10 mm and a length of 300 mm should hold the valve, acting through the spark plug hole. To prevent all kinds of accidents, it is advisable to cover the device (its working body) and the spring being removed with a rag at the time of dismantling the valve;
- prying with two screwdrivers at the bottom edge of the cap, remove it. When performing this work, care must be taken, since one unsuccessful movement with a screwdriver and the thin-walled part of the valve guide sleeve is deformed and it is necessary to remove the block head to replace the sleeve;
- press a new cap using a mandrel, a tube of suitable diameter. The main thing is that the cap sits in its place without skew, since a new one, but installed skewed, will not be able to keep the oil from penetrating to the candle.
It can occur for both serious and non-critical reasons. The first category includes the following possible malfunctions - wear of the piston oil scraper rings, clogged breather, wear of the oil seals, leakage through the gasket or seals, and some others. The simple ones include: the wrong oil is filled, the oil filter is leaking, it is leaking through the valve cover.
Also, do not forget about the fact that each internal combustion engine has such a thing as "natural waste". That is, the oil naturally evaporates during engine operation (this is especially true for). Therefore, it is necessary to monitor the oil level and periodically top it up regularly.
What is normal oil consumption?
Before looking for the cause of high oil consumption and the need for its constant periodic topping up, it is worth understanding what value of waste is considered normal. And only then to understand why the engine began to eat oil.
Additives to reduce oil consumption
With a high oil consumption, it is necessary to repair the engine or replace the oil caps, but if the lubrication is negligible, special additives will help. To reduce the amount of engine oil "for waste" use Hi-Gear OIL Treatment, Liqui Moly Oil Additiv or
The rate for oil waste depends on the type and condition of the engine. Let's start the review with atmospheric gasoline engines. For new engines, the oil rate for waste is about 5 ... 25 grams per thousand kilometers, that is, approximately 0.005% ... 0.025% per 100 liters of fuel burned. Occasionally, you can find models in which the same value is up to 30 ... 40 grams (for example, V6 or V8 engines). As for normally worn engines, their natural consumption is 0.025% ... 0.1% per 100 liters. That is, about 25 ... 100 grams per 1000 kilometers. If the gasoline engine is very worn out, then the value increases to 0.4% ... 0.6% per 100 liters, that is, 400 ... 600 grams. The critical mark is 0.8%, that is, 800 grams per 100 liters of gasoline. Such an engine needs!
Now a little about turbocharged petrol engines. If the engine is new, then it will consume about 80 grams per 100 liters of fuel (conditionally per 1000 kilometers). As for worn-out units, 2 liters of oil per 100 liters of fuel is considered a critical value.
Concerning diesel engines, then their waste consumption will be greater than that of atmospheric gasoline. So, it is believed that the norm is about 30 ... 50 grams of oil per 100 liters of fuel. The critical value is 2 liters per hundred liters of diesel fuel. In this case, urgent repairs are needed. Delaying with it can lead to irreversible consequences.
Causes of an increase in lubricant waste in the engine
There are two main reasons for the increase in waste:
- Incorrectly selected or simply low-quality (fake) oil. It is necessary to fill the engine with oil with the viscosity and tolerances recommended by the automaker. And try not to buy oils of dubious brands and untrustworthy outlets.
- Rigid engine operation. In particular, frequent work at high speeds. At the same time, its temperature rises significantly, and more oil is needed for lubrication and cooling. Remember that more oil is consumed during the cold season. This is due to the peculiarities of the crankcase ventilation. Therefore, in order to reduce waste, try to warm up the car at idle in winter!
Some engines "guzzle" oil due to their design. These, for example, include the N52 engine from BMW, which is installed on many models of this German automaker.
The decrease in the oil level occurs for two reasons - due to waste and leakage (high consumption). So if the oil is chosen correctly, and the driving mode is moderate, then with a working engine, there should not be excessive consumption. But when, under the same conditions, the lubricant decreases, it makes sense to search for the cause of the malfunction.
Causes of high engine oil consumption and methods for their elimination
Let's conditionally divide the reasons why oil consumption increases into complex (the repair of which is difficult and expensive in monetary terms) and simple. It makes sense to start the diagnosis with simple ones (if there are appropriate “symptoms”).
Simple faults
Oil filter failure. This is a very common and frequent reason that the engine has a large oil consumption. Damage can affect cars with both gasoline and diesel engines. You can indirectly diagnose a malfunction by an oil stain regularly formed under the bottom of the car (only during diagnostics it is important to determine that this is engine oil, and not transmission oil). The reasons for this situation may be:
- the filter housing is loosely twisted (or not twisted at all);
- rupture of the filter housing (for example, if there was a marriage on it or it is simply of poor quality in itself);
- the sealing gasket has worn out.
There is only one way out - replacing the old filter and pouring fresh oil. If necessary, the oil system can be cleaned.
Valve lid
Valve gasket wear. It can simply grow old from time or sudden changes in temperature. As a rule, smudges are visible in places of bolted connections.
As a solution to this problem, you can try to tighten the bolts to increase the pressure (preferably with a torque wrench). But it's best to do a complete valve cover gasket replacement.
Deterioration of the sealing gasket of the pallet. Here the situation is similar to the previous one. The engine oil pan gasket can be seen by raising the machine on a lift or working from a viewing hole. Its material tans over time and it loses elasticity. The way out of the situation is similar - either try to tighten the mounting bolts or completely replace the gasket.
Oil viscosity mismatch. In particular, if the engine is designed to use low-viscosity oils in it, and a more viscous oil is poured into it, then its piston rings become unable to completely clean the lubricant from the cylinder walls. And this leads to the already described situation, when oil enters the combustion chamber and its increased consumption appears. However, such reasoning is valid for engines of modern designs. For older power units, as their mileage increases, it makes sense, on the contrary, to use a more viscous oil. Anyway, follow the recommendations of the automaker, and fill the engine with the required engine oil!
Mobil offers its customers Mobil 1 synthetic oil with a viscosity of 10W-60, designed for engines with significant mileage, in particular, more than 150 thousand kilometers.
High crankcase pressure. The specified pressure usually increases with significant wear of the engine, elements of its cylinder-piston group. Therefore, it is necessary to diagnose the condition of the engine, the geometry of the cylinders, the condition of their coating, and so on. The first thing to do is check the crankcase valve (cover). If it is faulty, you need to repair or replace it. And also clean the crankcase gas filter (if any).
Usually, when the crankcase ventilation is faulty, there is an increased oil burnout (high carbon formation), a decrease in compression, deterioration in fuel combustion, and a decrease in oil life (its rapid contamination). After troubleshooting, it is necessary to flush the crankcase ventilation system.
If the machine is equipped with a turbine, then an increase in pressure may be caused by its failure. It is easy to diagnose, usually in such cases its oil seal or bearings fail. To repair you need to perform the specified items. In the most critical cases, the entire turbine is replaced.
Complicated reasons
Now let's move on to more complex reasons due to which the engine "eats" oil. Usually this is a partial failure of the main engine parts. They are fraught with complex repairs, up to major ones.
Wear of oil seals. The purpose of these small seals is to remove oil from the valve body. Due to their natural wear (or due to constant sharp temperature changes, but less often), they lose their elasticity and do not cope with their tasks. The grease remains on the valves and burns out, leaving a thick layer of soot. Because of this, a situation arises when the car is eating oil.
In this case, the repair is not yet very complicated, but it will be necessary to disassemble the engine a little in order to replace them.
Wear of piston oil scraper rings. This is usually expressed in their significant overheating and / or mechanical wear. The main function of these parts is to keep engine oil from entering the combustion chambers. However, in the course of their work, they constantly rub against the walls of the cylinders, naturally wearing out. When wear reaches a critical value, the rings do not do their job and part of the oil burns out along with the fuel. You can indirectly diagnose such a breakdown by changing the color of the exhaust gases and changing their smell, the smell of burnt oil is added to it. Usually this comes out of the exhaust pipe. Also, ring wear can occur due to a decrease in the coolant level. Because of this, the engine is very hot and the rings, as motorists say, “lie down”.
Often, when oil enters the combustion chamber, black deposits appear on the electrodes on the spark plugs.
Repair in this case is quite expensive, both in terms of the amount of work and in terms of money. To do this, you need to disassemble the engine and replace the oil scraper rings.
But there may be a less costly reason - coking of the rings and oil outlet channels. This situation occurs if the engine has been running on bad (or inappropriate) oil for a long time. In this case, increased consumption of engine oil is provided, but it is solved much easier - with a special liquid.
Damage to the walls of the engine cylinders. This reason is due to the natural wear of the cylinder block. Most often found in engines with high mileage (old cars). In this case, oil enters the combustion chamber due to the fact that the rings (even if they are in good condition) do not fit snugly against the walls of the cylinder block. Oil seeps into these cracks. Similar to the previous paragraph, in this case, blue smoke will come out of the exhaust pipe. The amount of "eaten" oil depends on the degree of wear of the cylinder walls.
Repair in this case is also quite expensive. At best, it will be necessary to bore the block, returning the cylinders to the correct geometric shape.
Some engines (for example, the already mentioned N52) warp the cylinder block due to its overheating. This is typical for motors in which the block is completely made of aluminum, and the walls of the working cylinders are coated with nikasil or alusil.
Cylinder head gasket failure. A leak in the cylinder head gasket can lead to many malfunctions and breakdowns, including a situation where the engine eats up oil. In this case, there may be two reasons. The first is the cylinder head or the gasket itself is defective, that is, their geometry is broken, and somewhere the oil begins to leak. However, this option is unlikely, especially on foreign cars, and just new cars. The second option is that the engine is very worn out, and.
The problem can be diagnosed in two ways. The first is to perform a visual inspection of the block in search of oil leakage from the mounting point (from under the bolt) and around the entire perimeter of the gasket. The second is to check the condition of the coolant. In the event of a breakdown, it will have oil stains. In some cases a white emulsion appears.
What to do in this situation? Everything is quite simple (and inexpensive in terms of money) - it is necessary to replace the cylinder head gasket. Please note that it is necessary to carry out the replacement according to a certain algorithm, observing the sequence of tightening the bolts, and also observing the tightening torque. To do this, it is desirable to use a torque wrench, as well as to have information on the value of the applied force for each bolt.
Oil seals
Failure of crankshaft and/or camshaft oil seals. As you know, the initial part of the crankshaft goes into the front of the engine. There is a special oil seal, which over time, due to temperature changes (especially severe frosts) or due to mechanical damage, can leak and leak. Also, the reason why the oil is eating may be the wrong lubricant. That is, oil or additives poured into it can corrode the oil seal over time and / or squeeze it out with significant pressure. The situation is quite unpleasant and difficult to diagnose.
Another crankshaft oil seal (rear) is also not easy to check. In most models of modern cars (and, it doesn’t matter, with a manual or automatic transmission), the opposite end of the crankshaft enters the gearbox, so it is not visually visible. Indirectly, this situation can be guessed from the regularly appearing puddle of oil under the place where the crankshaft enters the gearbox. If a puddle appears regularly, then you need to go to a service station or dismantle the gearbox yourself and perform appropriate diagnostics and repairs. It is very labor-intensive, but it does not cost very much money.
The situation is similar with the camshaft, with the only pleasant exception that it does not have a rear oil seal, and changing the front one is not very difficult. The diagnostic problem is exacerbated by the fact that oil smudges in this case are hidden by the timing belt cover. But usually in such situations, the oil leaks right up to the crankcase protection. If there are oil stains - you need to conduct an appropriate inspection.
Please note that if the camshaft oil seal fails, a situation may arise when the timing belt can fly off, and this in turn will lead to bent valves, and as a result, costly repairs. Therefore, it is better not to delay the diagnosis!
In addition to these obvious reasons, there may be some indirect ones, which in one way or another entail increased consumption of lubricant. These include: a rich mixture or a dirty air filter. because of them there is an additional load on the engine.
Why diesel eats oil
Diesel engines can also burn oil. In addition to the reasons listed above (which are relevant for both gasoline and diesel engines), diesel engines have one special one. In particular, significant wear of high pressure pump parts. As a rule, they are lubricated and cooled using a common oil system. Due to worn parts and/or gaskets, engine oil can enter the engine's combustion chamber.
Indirect signs of such a breakdown, in addition to an increase in the amount of oil consumed, is the appearance of thick black exhaust smoke (similar to blue smoke in gasoline engines).
The presence of oil in the exhaust gases (both gasoline and diesel engines) can be detected using a sheet of clean paper, which must be attached to the outlet (cut) of the exhaust pipe. If there is oil, then its droplets will remain on paper and will be clearly visible.
A few words about turbines
Engines with turbochargers have their own specifics of operation, due to which excessive oil consumption is possible. So, the old turbines had cooling from the engine lubrication system. Accordingly, if the turbine breaks during operation (bearings break), then it can transfer oil from the engine through the bearings. Moreover, depending on how broken the turbine is, the oil consumption can be quite large, and amount to 1 ... 3 liters per 10 thousand kilometers.
Also, a partial failure of the turbocharger can lead to an increase in crankcase gas pressure. And this, in turn, leads to oil entering the cylinders directly into the fuel injection through the crankcase ventilation system. In this case, it is necessary to revise the turbine, repair it, and, if necessary, replace it.
Oil consumption on new cars
For engines that have just rolled off the assembly line or have been overhauled, all rubbing parts have not yet perfectly adjusted. Because of this, the first few hundred kilometers of the run, the motor operates in the break-in mode, when there may be microscopic gaps between the parts. It is through them that oil leakage is possible. The situation will normalize when the parts are ground in and the engine can be used at full power.
Do not forget that when running it is necessary to drive in a gentle mode, and do not give the engine heavy loads (including high speeds).
Finally
In conclusion, I would like to note that monitoring the oil level in the engine is not only the direct responsibility of the car owner, but also a guarantee that the engine will work for a long time and in normal mode. Use the oil (with viscosity and tolerances) recommended by the machine manufacturer. And remember that if the car began to “eat” oil heavily, then constantly adding lubricant will not solve the problem at the root, this is only a temporary measure that can only aggravate the situation. When a problem is identified, diagnose the machine as soon as possible in search of possible causes of engine oil leakage and carry out repairs accordingly.
There are many reasons why the engine can "take" oil, sometimes it is very difficult, and sometimes even impossible, to find out why the engine "eats" oil at home. Today I will try to talk about the most likely reasons why a motor can increase engine oil consumption.
Let's immediately dot the "i". What does it mean the engine is eating oil or the engine is taking oil? Some literally understand this driver's expression, imagining a motor that is powered by engine oil. 🙂 This, of course, is nonsense, by the expressions takes or eats, it means the overspending of engine oil, which should not be. That is, the manufacturer indicated that for 10,000 the engine will use up 1 liter of engine oil, this is considered the norm and there is no cause for concern. For example, when you changed the oil, let's say 5 liters into the engine, you should be prepared for the fact that after 10,000 km you have to add oil to the engine of your car. If you have to top up more often or more, this is called - the engine is eating oil.
Where does this oil go?
As you know, all friction elements are lubricated with oil, without which it is impossible to imagine any internal combustion engine. Permissible oil consumption, as a rule, occurs due to the piston group of the engine, in this place the friction is greatest. Due to high temperatures, some of the engine oil burns out "flying out into the pipe" along with the exhaust or deposited on the walls of the combustion chamber, piston rings or valve seats.
Note: You should not take as a rule the figure I have given above of 10,000 km and 1 liter of oil, for each car this figure can differ significantly, it all depends on the brand of the engine and its features.
Increased fuel consumption indicates engine malfunctions, very often the cause is engine wear. As a rule, it all starts with the fact that oil appears in the ventilation system, gradually, if nothing is done, the oil will appear in the air filter. The reason for this is the pressure of crankcase gases, which increases as the engine wears out, while oil is pushed into the breather.
Turbocharged engines can gobble up oil very quickly, while draining the engine sump, due to the banal wear of the turbine rotor bushings. That is why owners of such engines should be extremely careful and monitor oil consumption in a timely manner, starting with the turbine.
Why does an engine burn oil?
Oil seals very often cause increased consumption of engine oil. Oil scraper caps are installed on the valves of the gas distribution system. Here unexpected phenomena are possible. For example, a poorly warmed-up engine increases the likelihood of hardening of the cap cuffs at times, but there is no need to talk about engines with mileage. A “hardened” cap will not seal, therefore, the oil will flow freely under the guide sleeve, along the valve stem. After that, the engine oil will either fly out with the exhaust gases, or enter the combustion chamber and cover the candles while burning. Result - and .
Piston rings are the second most likely reason an engine is eating oil. On one piston, as a rule, there are three rings, on top there are two compression rings, and under them there is one oil scraper. What compression rings are for, you know, I hope. With their help, the manufacturer reduces the gap between the piston and the cylinder wall, due to which there is a maximum return of the transmitted energy for engine rotation. In order to reduce the friction that occurs between the compression rings and the cylinder walls, oil is supplied to them, the remnants of which are removed by the oil scraper rings. The wear of these rings leads to the fact that part of the oil will remain on the walls, therefore, oil consumption will increase. As a result, you will miss several liters of engine oil in one day and come to the conclusion that the engine is eating oil.
During its "life" the motor is subjected to a large number of changes in heating and cooling cycles. At the same time, all engine parts are tested. The wear of piston rings or their loss of elasticity, in addition, is also fraught with the occurrence of a phenomenon called flutter. This phenomenon is little studied, but one thing is known for sure, when the motor is running, the ring can oscillate along the piston radius with a high frequency, or it can repeatedly jump from one edge of the piston groove to another. Because of such fluctuations, the engine consumes almost liters of oil, most often this malfunction manifests itself in the form of a characteristic bluish smoke from the exhaust.
Poor quality engine oil, as well as oil that does not match the type of engine, also often causes the engine to start taking oil. This reason indirectly affects the previous malfunction. The fact is that for each engine there is a "own" oil, if it is incorrectly selected, then its consumption can increase significantly. Due to the fact that the oil is too thin, the piston rings cannot "collect" it and it remains on the cylinder walls and after the fuel-air mixture is ignited, it burns out with it. As a result, it either “flies out” with the exhaust, or is deposited in the combustion chamber or on candles, but whatever one may say, the oil level will constantly decrease. Also, often the "wrong" oil is deposited in a thick oily layer on the engine parts, this can lead to "bedding" or. If the rings lie, compression in all cylinders of the engine disappears.
There are other reasons why an engine takes oil, such as normal wear and tear. In this case, there is a complex development of all engine parts. As a result, oil is lost many times faster than during normal operation. Engine wear most often means deformation of the cylinder walls, if the engine continues to operate. The increased gap between the rubbing surfaces, cracks and chips and scuffs on the cylinder walls, as well as burnt cylinder head gaskets and - lead to oil leakage and a drop in its level. Oil residues burn out or are deposited on parts, it is quite difficult to predict what the consumption will be in this case, it all depends on the degree of wear and damage to the internal combustion engine.
In closing, I would like to add...
You should also be aware of replacement cycles. Remember that timely replacement will save you from many problems, including such an unpleasant phenomenon as excessive consumption of engine oil. Also do not forget in a timely manner, using special flushing oils. Buy only high-quality engine oil from a trusted manufacturer, the one recommended by your dealer or the one indicated in the owner's manual for your car.
Others do it yourself.
Oil consumption
Part of the engine oil burns out during the lubricating action. So oil consumption is a completely natural process. Well-run engines consume 0.2 liters per 1000 km, Audi calls the maximum allowable consumption of 1.0 liters per 1000 km.
The oil consumption of your Audi 80 depends on the following circumstances:
- Overflowing oil results in high consumption because the crankcase ventilation blows out excess oil.
- Thin oil burns faster than thick oil. Seasonal oil becomes liquid like water when heated, and consumption increases accordingly. All-weather oil remains more viscous; first of all, those who drive long distances may notice a lower consumption of this oil.
- All-season oil that stays in the engine for too long becomes thinner, the higher viscosity grade is “lost”, and the need for topping up increases accordingly.
- A sharp driving style, in addition to increased gas mileage, also increases oil consumption. This is especially noticeable if the new engine is immediately subjected to heavy loads.
- During break-in, the engine needs more lubricant.
- Engine leakage. Check according to the scheme described in the chapter Engines.
- Defect in the engine; e.g. defective valve stem seal (valve stem seal), excessive clearance between valve guide and valve seal, defective piston rings or incorrectly installed piston rings
Zero oil consumption is suspect
During winter operation over short distances, it may also be that the oil level between measurements does not decrease at all or even increases. This is absolutely no reason to be happy, because it means that the engine oil is diluted with fuel or condensate. This changing oil must be "boiled" during regular long-distance driving to allow the condensation to evaporate. At the end of the trip, the oil level should be checked, because it will drop significantly due to the evaporation of parts of the gasoline and condensate! For extreme city driving without long distance trips in between, it's better if you change the oil earlier than usual; perhaps already after 3000 km or four months.
In winter, one should reckon with an admixture of gasoline in oil of about 2-3%, and due to the better dosed enrichment of the combustible mixture in our injection engines, when starting a cold engine, less gasoline enters the oil than in old carburetors.
Correct oil specification
Since relatively long oil change intervals of 15,000 km run the risk of deposits in the oil sump, Audi has issued strict oil regulations.
- Ordinary mineral oil must comply with Volkswagen Standard 50101 (VW-Norm 50101). In this case, it has sufficient cleaning properties to prevent the formation of sediment.
- Oils with good anti-friction properties reduce internal friction in the engine. They must comply with the 500 00 standard (VW-Norm 500 00).
- Only in the event that the oil listed above is not available, you can use all-weather or seasonal oil of the categories "API SF" and "API SG" for topping up.
Oil viscosity
The fluidity of the oil, that is, its viscosity, must meet the requirements for use in this engine. In doing so, two criteria should be kept in mind:
- The oil must not be too viscous, as the starter must be able to crank a cold engine, and the places where oil enters in the engine must be lubricated immediately after starting a cold engine.
- The oil should not be too thin, because at high temperatures and engine speeds, the lubricating film may break.
SAE classes
The American Society of Automotive Engineers has classified oils into classes according to their viscosity.
Seasonal oil
These classes start with motor oils from liquid winter (winter) oils SAE 5W, 10W, 15W through the intermediate stage SAE 20W / 20 to viscous summer oils SAE 30, 40 and 50.
The cheapest motor oil used to be seasonal oil. For perfect lubrication of the engine, it must be filled with viscous or liquid seasonal oil according to the season. Seasonal oil is almost impossible to find at gas stations or supermarkets today, but it is still often used in fleets. For use in the Audi 80, it is suitable (and this is the opinion of the manufacturer) only as a temporary solution in a hopeless situation.
All-weather oil
The production of multigrade oil used today is more complex and therefore multigrade oil is correspondingly more expensive than seasonal oil. As a viscosity index improver, it contains long chains of molecules that "swell" when heated and lose volume again when cooled. In this case, the oil can "elastically" adapt to temperatures and cover many viscosity classes. SAE 15W-50 oil corresponds to a viscosity class of 15W at -15°C and a viscosity class of 50 at 100°C.
Problematic with multigrade oils based on mineral oils is the fact that the chains of molecules that improve viscosity decompose over time and in this case the oil becomes less resistant to temperature effects. For this reason, Audi does not permit the use of SAE 10W-30 and 10W-40 multigrade oils in its vehicles during the warm season.
